What I Ate in Istanbul (and What I'd Skip)
It's easy to get Istanbul wrong. I learned that the hard way on my first morning at the Spice Bazaar, where I stood in line for an hour for a cup of tea that cost 15 lira—only to realize I was waiting for a tourist trap. The real magic, I discovered, isn't in the crowded markets but in the quiet corners where locals eat, like a tiny spot on Kızıltoprak Caddesi that serves the best manti (Turkish dumplings) I've ever had, priced at just 12 lira for a plate of eight. Istanbul's food scene is a living thing, not a checklist. You can't just "try the kebabs" and call it a day. The city's soul is in its small, unassuming places, where the kitchen is open until 2 a.m. and the owner knows your name. I found one such place, a hole-in-the-wall near the Galata Bridge called Simitci Mehmet Usta, where they've been making simit (sesame-covered bread rings) for over 40 years. It's open from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m., and a single simit costs 3 lira. I went there e...