What I Ate in Lisbon (and What I'd Skip)
It's easy to get Lisbon wrong. I learned that the hard way on my first morning when I tried to order a café au lait at a tiny shop on Rua da Misericórdia, only to be handed a small cup of espresso and a plate of pastéis de nata. The barista smiled and said, "This is how we do it here," and I realized I’d been chasing the wrong kind of coffee. Lisbon doesn't do "café au lait" — it does coffee with a side of pastry, and it’s the best way to start the day. My favorite spot for that perfect morning ritual is Manteigaria, tucked away on Rua da Madre de Deus, just steps from the river. They’ve been making pastéis de nata since 1931, and the secret is in the crust — thin, flaky, and just slightly caramelized. I ordered two for 2.50 euros, and they were so good I went back twice in one week. The shop opens at 7 a.m. and closes by 3 p.m., so plan your visit early or risk missing out on the fresh batch. For lunch, I found a hidden gem in the Alfama district: Tasca...